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|  Madhuri
Mumbai | 24th May 2008 | | Keylong in November | Overview of the destination
I did not know about the existence of this region, until, while planning another holiday to Himachal, we took out the atlas to look for a destination which was higher than Manali and lesser known. And there we saw a small dot called Keylong, and decided to go there. On the HPTDC site, we also found a property to stay ? The Chandra Bhaga. And immediately we booked the hotel for a night.
As we researched, we found out that Keylong is the capital of Lahaul Spiti region, and thus started an exploration of this area, which seemed to be strangely exciting and remote. I was enamored with Chandratal, which in pictures looked very surreliastic, and I planned to visit.
Our trip was planned in beginning November. We were, however skeptical whether Rohtang will be open by then, because the pass normally closes on the last day of October. It is for this reason that we planned only one night?s stay at Keylong as we were not even sure whether we will get there or will be able to get back.
So, after enjoying a couple of beautiful days in Manali and the surrounding region, we booked an SUV to take us to Keylong. I tried to enquire about Chandratal, but it was in the opposite direction to Keylong, and the weather was not conducive for staying in tents ? there are obviously no hotels in the vicinity. So we postponed the visit to Chandratal for a later day.
From the word go, our driver seemed apprehensive. He told us that we were perhaps the only people who were crossing Rohtang in November, and going so far away from it on the other side. If the pass closed down while we were there, it would take us seven months to get out.
At Rohtang, we took a long halt, as we enjoyed the snow point and took in the views. From Manali to Rohtang, our car was accompanied by many other vehicles, taking tourists to Rohtang.
The Rohtang pass almost seems like a gate to Narnia, because the worlds on either side of it are completely different. The green, almost soft valley of Kullu suddenly becomes the angry, arid and brown Lahaul and Spiti. As we got out of Rohtang, just as suddenly, we also saw a shift in the mood of our driver, who seemed both uncomfortable and anxious about the drive. He said that in his many years (35) of driving experience, this was the first time he was going to Lahaul in November, because Rohtang normally closed in October
Rohtang onward, the road mostly went downhill, as Rohtang is a high pass. Unlike on the way up to the pass, this time we rarely met another vehicle on the road, which made our driver a little more scared and us a little more thrilled. On the way, after an hour?s journey, we stopped at a village called Khoksar which was really just a bunch of dhabhas and a police station put together. Here we tried to hunt for a loo and got very amused responses. With a mocking grin, people told us that there was no toilet nearby.
It is after Khoksar that the best part of the journey begins. It is here that we enter the Chandra valley and the rest of the path circuits along the river Chandra (Part of the river Chenab). The valley is completely barren, flanked by dry, snow-capped mountains on either side. I don?t think that the area ever receives any rain, because the land seems as disintegrated as a desert and the road is laden with dust. On the sides of the road, you can see hills covered with masses of snow ? it is almost that a gush of water was flowing down the mountain in its full glory, when someone lifted a finger and said: Statue. And the water froze midway, without getting a chance to settle down.
We went through the lonely and lovely journey for three hours before we reached Keylong. At Chandrabhaga, we were greeted by the hotel caretaker who told us that the hotel closes down in October end and will reopen in May, that the entire staff has left for Manali and that there is no water supply to the rooms as all pipes have burst with frozen water! It was only through the remarkable hospitality of this guy that we survived.
I found it amazing that the people of Keylong (and Spiti in general) bear their 7 months of their exile without a complaint. They stock up the reserves, fill up water which they melt for use, and carry on with a regular life, not even closing their schoolsFood, sight-seeing and shopping
Keylong being a slightly larger town, has a few restaurants and rest houses, in contrast to all villages that we found on the road. Our food was mainly the delicious feast prepared for us by the caretaker's wife, which we devoured to no end. but there are plenty of road-side restaurants, cafes and Maggi-joints in the town.
Keylong is famous for its monasteries, especially the Tayul gompa monastery which is about 6 km away. The whole place has a Tibetian atmosphere, which is different from the predominantly Hindu valley of Kullu.
The best sight-seeing is en route. There are great halts around Sissu, a village close to Keylong which boasts of its own helipad. The terrain is even more beautiful closer to Rohtang, with overwhelming snow peaks and an enchanting lake. Activities & things to do
The most avid activity in the region is walking and driving around, to enjoy the terrain. If you go in summers, you can trek to the monasteries, and also to Chandratal and Surajtal. You can also enjoy some quiet time at the banks of Chandra and more time close to Rohtang and its lake. Travel tips, How to reach, travel warnings etc.
One of the best ways is to take a taxi from Manali, as it allows you the flexibility of stopping wherever you want to. One can also get buses which ply from Manali. Manali itself can be reached by air from Delhi, or by Volvo buses from Delhi and Chandigarh. One should avoid the region between November to May, because everything is closed down at the time, and you might find yourself unable to get out of Spiti until Rohtang opens up again. | |
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| Recent questions on Lahaul and Spiti - Answer them now! |
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 Is late August a good time to visit Spity valley? | | Hello,
I am planning to join a group tour to the Spity valley in the last week of August. I would like to know if it is a good time to visit the valley. What would be the weather like during that time? Is it peak monsoon season with heavy rains and landslides? These are the places going to be covered as part of the itinerary:
Starting point: Manali
Chandratal lake
Losar
Rangrik
a couple of nearby monasteries
I would be very happy if someone could answer this and help me take a decision. Thanks. | | | keylong lahaul | | i am planning to visit keylong in august, i would like to know about the weather at that time of the and is it safe to take infants along, if travelling by own car. | | | Itenary for Lahaul and Spiti | | Hi,
I am planning a visit to Lahaul and Spiti in the month of Sept / Oct. I wanted to know some details
1. What is the best time to visit.
2. How many days should I plan for.
3. A suggested itenary...I would also like to visit Chandratal. | |
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