Kashmir Reviews

Overview of the destination
For quite a considerable time we were thinking of visiting Kashmir-the paradise on earth. But it was not taking place either due to fear of terrorism or due to extended plan of visiting the place with Ladakh. One can definitely visit ladakh with usual tour of Kashmir but that will drain your energy level. So this time we shed our inhibition for security threat and opted for usual tour of Kashmir i.e. Srinagar-Gulmarg-Sonamarg-Pahalgam. We even left Jammu on the ground that it will be covered more meaningfully with Amritsar on some later date. I got the news of Srinagar bandh on 5th April reuter site amidst our optimism. Our journey started at the very early morning of 6th April at around four am. Beginning a journey at that hour was itself very satisfactory. No congestion on the roads, no dharna( last evening a political party blocked road leading to Airport on the death of twenty people due to rash driving of a bus), no horn. I generally prefer this time and always try to book tickets accordingly. I am lucky that for last two years I could manage it. This time we are travelling by two connecting flights-one of Indian Airlines and the other of Jet Airways. Due to the timing of early morning we faced no queue in front of security check. Both the flights were on time and we reached Srinagar airport by 1.30 pm. The airport of Srinagar had an unusual look. The building looked like an office with two big rooms and nothing more. It was a small airport filled with army people. Only V. I. P. Cars were allowed inside and all others were kept outside. We boarded a car and went for Dal Lake -our first destination. The roads of Srinagar is astonishingly good and wider than most of the roads of Kolkata and Howrah. This feature seemed very unique compared to other hilly regions. On later stage of our journey we found great plains where Kashmiris cultivate. The very first sight of Dal Lake was quite shocking to us. The road approaching Dal is congested with dubious traders. This very sight reminded us memories of Swargadwar, Puri where every local sells something to tourists. Sometimes this becomes annoying. We took a shikara to reach a houseboat that has been booked by our travel agent. The pollution of the lake cannot escape your attention. In a few moments we got a glimpse of a hoarding ' Save Dal Lake'. When we reached the houseboat it was around two pm. The front view of the boat was good. But after reaching inside we were informed that electricity was not available during the day time. It comes around six pm. We have no idea whether the person gave wrong info or not. But we found it a very depressing condition. All the rooms were dark and toilets were darkest. The food was average and taste was better to forget. After bad lunch we left for shikara ride. This was important for us to understand the surroundings. What we found can be termed as Dal Lake economy separated from the land economy. The present generation of oldest inhabitants are still living here and surviving either selling various items to tourists or by supplying various indigenous products. We found them poor, needy and they lack basic needs like education and health. We found a centre for primary education on the lake which seemed of no use from appearance. The boatman informed that there is no school on the lake though there exists floating restaurant. He even informed us that Govt. is considering shifting and rehabilitation of them. We fear this ambitious project wouldn't loose steam like our Tolly Nullah project. Some households try to collect shrubs from inside water and to dry them in sunlight to make manure. This manure is used in cultivation on floating land on the lake. The struggling lives on this great lake somewhat dampened our spirit. During this shikara ride we got disturbed by numerous traders among them most were great liars. It seemed from their behaviour that they come from outside to exploit tourists. Local persons cannot use this opportunity as they have no such things to trade. However the traders would claim that the shawls were woven by local ladies of the lake. After close look you will find them made in ludhiana. Like drivers of Varanasi who always tries to sell benarasi saree here Shikara owners encourage you to buy shawl from Lake shops to get their commission. After a long shikara ride we reached our houseboat for overnight stay. The bed was warm and we took early dinner to get into warm bed. Next morning we took early breakfast and left Dal Lake for Pahalgam. The road was broad and good for driving. On the road we saw the famous saffron fields spread on both sides of the road. The name of this place is Pompura. This saffron cultivation plays an important place in its economy. The price of good saffron is prohibitively high. At its birthplace it costs Rs.140 per gm. and it becomes Rs.200 per gm. at Srinagar. En route to Pahalgam we found a village dominated by Sikhs. Pahalgam is in Anantnag district. When we reached Pahalgam it was under the grip of dark clouds. It was a sleepy town where you won't find any crowd. The place is fantastic and one can settle there for a peaceful stay. River Lidder is flowing by the side and snow clapped peaks are covering the place from all sides. We took lunch and left for pony ride for three point journey. Except this ride there is nothing to do. Next morning we started for Srinagar and en route visited Anantpura ruins. After lunch we went for Sankaracharya temple and now famous Tulip garden. It was opened on 29th March, 2008 by Mrs. Sonia Gandhi. Since then it has become a great money puller for the Govt. As per the local estimate it is earning Rs. One lakh per day. When we went there we found the ticket price is very high- Rs.50 per person per hour. But the garden has superb collection of tulips- 12 lakh flowers of 60 varieties. We heard that our railway minister Laluji yesterday visited the garden and was deeply impressed. But the garden has already become centre of political anecdotes. Though the Garden has become the centre of talking we really enjoyed it. We noticed that most of the visitors were local and so called V. I. P.s (local Govt. Officials). Next morning we started for Sonamarg. It took around three hours to reach the place. Before starting we had very little idea about what we were going to see. Actually all write-ups pay little attention to this place as it is often described as the approach road to Leh. But after reaching Gangabal we realized that a big surprise is waiting for us. Around this place we found that accumulated ice on both sides of the road has taken height of ten ft. The driver informed that the road has been opened just seven days ago. As our car was approaching Sonamarg our vision got entirely blocked by white covered mountain peaks. We have never seen ice so near that when we came outside the car we found ice below our feet. Wherever our vision goes it is all white. The road is slippery with ice. We put cautious steps on it and negotiated with a person for sledge ride. It took us to a higher point from where the entire region was visible. We played with ice in that iree weather. Chill winds were blowing from all sides. We found a person selling Kawa at such height. Though unusual, this drink gave us much needed comfort. After the ride it was time for coming downward. It was another mind blowing experience for us. The sledge came downward so fast that it gave us feeling of roller-coaster ride. Next morning we headed for Gulmarg. After a great day at Sonamarg we were quite satisfied and had no euphoria to visit Gulmarg. Still we started and our experience was not so great. The place was full of touts and on each and every occassion they disturbed us. As the number of touts outnumbered the tourists the situation became worse. Due to heavy fog visibility was very poor. We found lot of ice there and played with them. But the disturbance marred everything. The next morning we started for returning to Kolkata. This time we found security check near Srinagar airport very stringent and time-taking. But it's reason is quite understandable.

Food, sight-seeing and shopping
Like all other tourist spot it is also full of touts. All of them are trying to sell Keshar, Badam, Shawl, and carpet. But tourists should take care while purchasing Shawls and carpets as people can cheat easily on those two items.

Activities & things to do
Being a cautious traveller I never ventured into thrilling activities. But I must say that pony ride at Pahalgaum on a rainy day was most fulfilling. It was little scary as pony was slipping on muddy road. But we thoroughly enjoyed.

Travel tips, How to reach, travel warnings etc.
I heard that Kashmir looks different at different season. We got the look of fading winter. We hope to see it in Autumn when Chinar leaves fall.